Spring Creamy Yellow Phone Bag Crochet Pattern

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A delicate lace-style crossbody phone pouch  —  crocheted in soft creamy yellow

This phone bag is perfect for spring. The creamy yellow color is flattering and soft, and the piece works equally well as both a functional phone bag and a delicate accessory. The body is worked flat in two identical lace panels that are then joined with single crochet, finished with a trim around the opening, and completed with a slim crocheted strap.

Spring Phone Bag Crochet Pattern

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Note: This pattern uses US crochet terminology (a US “double crochet” is the same stitch as a UK “treble”).

Materials

• Suxin yarn in creamy yellow (or a similar fine cotton/blend yarn in the color of your choice)
• 3.0 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends and attaching the strap)
• Scissors

Skill level & finished size

Skill level: Advanced beginner – Intermediate. The body is an airy filet / lace pattern with paired shell repeats; if you are comfortable with basic stitches and reading a written pattern, you can make this bag.

Finished size: A slim crossbody pouch sized to comfortably hold a standard smartphone. Exact finished dimensions depend on your yarn weight and tension.

Abbreviations

Abbrev.	Meaning
ch	chain
sl st	slip stitch
sc	single crochet
hdc	half double crochet
dc	double crochet
st(s)	stitch(es)
sp	space
rep	repeat
( ) x N	repeat instructions in parentheses N times
* to *	repeat from * as directed

Bag Body  (make 2 identical panels)

The body is worked flat in rows. Each row is worked with the right side of the work facing you after turning. Read each row carefully — the lace layout shifts between every-other-stitch mesh, shell groups, and solid stitches.

Row 1 — Foundation

Make a slip knot on the hook. Ch 24.

Count back to the 6th chain from the hook. In that chain, work (1 dc, ch 1). 

Skip 1 ch, (1 dc, ch 1) in the next ch. Repeat this “skip 1, (1 dc, ch 1) in next” sequence across the foundation chain, working every other chain, for a total of 9 groups of (dc, ch 1).

Two chains will remain. Skip 1 ch, then work 1 dc in the very last chain.

Note: At this point the beginning of the foundation forms a ch-5 arch (the 5 chains skipped at the start). That arch becomes the “large corner space” worked into during Row 2.

Row 2 — Around the base

Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), turn.

Work 1 dc in the first ch-1 space, then 1 dc in the next dc.

Continue: work 1 dc in each ch-1 space and 1 dc in each dc across, working every stitch/space in order along the top edge. — 18 dc total along this edge.

Work 8 dc into the large corner space (the ch-5 arch at the starting end of the foundation chain). — 8 dc in the corner.

Continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 1 dc in each dc and each ch-1 space, in order. — 19 dc total along this edge.

Note: Row 2 effectively wraps around one short end of Row 1, giving the panel its softly rounded shape on that side.

Row 3

Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 1), turn.

Skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st. Repeat across, working every other stitch, for 9 groups total.

Next, over the curved section, work into every stitch (not every other): (1 dc, ch 1) in each of the next 9 stitches. — 9 (dc, ch 1) groups worked consecutively.

Then return to the every-other pattern: skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st; repeat across for 8 groups total.

Two stitches remain. Skip 1 st, work 1 dc into the 3rd ch of the turning ch-3 at the start of Row 2.

Row 4

Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), turn.

Work 1 dc in each ch-1 space and 1 dc in each dc, in order, across the first straight section. — 17 dc total.

Now work the increase groups over the curved section. One group = 1 dc in the next stitch, then 2 dc into the following ch-1 space (the 2 dc together count as an increase).

Repeat this “1 dc + increase (2 dc in ch-sp)” sequence for 9 groups total.

Continue across the remaining straight section: 1 dc in each ch-1 space and 1 dc in each dc, in order. — 19 dc total.

Row 5 — First shell pattern

Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 1), turn.

Skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st. Repeat across, every other stitch, for 9 groups total.

Pattern repeat: Skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st; ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts; ch 1.

Work this pattern repeat a total of 5 times across the curved middle section.

Then continue: skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1) in next st; repeat across for 9 groups total.

Two stitches remain. Skip 1 st, work 1 dc into the 3rd ch of the turning ch-3 at the start of Row 4.

Row 6 — Second shell pattern

Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + ch 1), turn.

Work (1 dc, ch 1) in each dc (in every dc — not every other) for 10 groups total.

Pattern repeat: Skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st; ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the next st; ch 1, skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1) in the next st.

Work this pattern repeat a total of 5 times across the curved section.

Then work (1 dc, ch 1) in each dc for 8 groups total.

Work 1 dc into the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4 at the start of Row 5.

Row 7 — Top edge (final row of panel)

Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn.

Work 1 hdc in each ch-1 space and 1 hdc in each dc, in order, across the first straight section. — 18 hdc total.

Begin the increase section over the curved edge. One group = 2 hdc in the next stitch (increase), then 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts.

Repeat this “increase + 2 hdc” sequence for 12 groups total.

Then work 19 hdc in order across to complete the row.

Finishing the first panel / preparing to join

For the FIRST panel: fasten off and weave in ends. Set aside.

For the SECOND panel: do NOT cut the yarn at the end of Row 7. Ch 1 and turn your work — you will use this working yarn to seam the two panels together in the next step.

Assembling the Bag

Pick up the first (finished) panel. Place the two panels with wrong sides together so that the right sides face outward.

With the yarn still attached to the second panel, insert the hook through the corresponding stitches of both panels and work 1 sc through both layers.

Continue working 1 sc through both layers in each pair of corresponding stitches, around the sides and curved bottom of the bag — this joins the two panels into a pouch. Work continuously in the round for one full round, leaving the top edge (Row 7 of each panel) open as the bag opening.

Bag Opening Trim

Round 1 — Double crochet round

After the final joining sc, work 1 sl st into the adjacent stitch to move into position at the top of the opening.

Ch 2. Work 1 dc into the side of the Row 7 half double crochet row (into the side-post of the row end), then 1 dc into the adjacent stitch along the opening.

Continue around the entire opening: work 1 dc into the side of each row end and 1 dc into each stitch along the top, so that the whole bag opening is edged with dc.

Join the round with 1 sl st into the first dc.

Round 2 — Single crochet round

Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with 1 sl st into the first sc.

Cut the yarn and weave in the ends.

Strap

The strap is a slim, rounded cord made by working single crochets through the two side loops (the two vertical bars on the side of each previous sc). This produces a dense, rope-like strap.

Make a slip knot and ch 2.

1 sc into the first chain (the chain closest to the hook).

1 sc into the second chain.

From here on: rotate the work slightly so the two vertical side bars of the previous sc are facing you. Insert the hook through those two side loops and work 1 sc. Pull up a loop and complete the sc as usual.

Continue working 1 sc through the two side loops of the previous stitch, over and over, until the strap reaches your desired length.

Note: Work the strap a little longer than you think you need — it will stretch slightly once sewn in place, but the technique is dense and will not stretch as much as a chain strap.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (about 20–30 cm / 8–12 in) at each end for sewing.

Attaching the strap

Using a yarn needle, sew one end of the strap securely to one side of the bag body at the top, just below the opening trim. Sew the other end to the opposite side in the same position, making sure the strap is not twisted.

Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of the bag.

Finishing tips

• If your bag opening flares slightly, gently steam-block or spray-block the finished bag and let it dry flat to even out the lace.
• For a fully lined phone pouch, cut a piece of lightweight fabric to the dimensions of the flattened bag plus a 1 cm seam allowance, sew into a small pouch, and hand-stitch it inside the opening.
• To swap sizes: for a larger phone or a mini bag, work 1–2 additional pattern rows between Rows 4 and 7 (keeping the established stitch pattern) before the Row 7 hdc top edge.

— Happy crocheting —